Raft Fishing Reel, Bait & Rig Tips (Part 2): How to Choose the Right Gear for Winter Raft Fishing

If you’ve read my first post, Raft Fishing Line Setup & Hook Selection, you already know the basics of micro-lead raft fishing for winter trips. But let’s be real—nailing the basics is just the first step. Now it’s time to dive into the nitty-gritty: picking the perfect reel, nailing your split shot weights, choosing bait that’ll make fish go crazy, and mastering the little tricks that turn a slow day into a trophy haul. Trust me, these details are what separate the “meh” anglers from the ones who always come home with a cooler full of fish. Let’s get into it!

Choosing the Best Reel for Raft Fishing

First up: the reel. I know what you’re thinking—“Do I really need a fancy dedicated raft reel?” The short answer? No… but also, kind of. Let me break it down.

At the end of the day, the most important thing for a raft fishing reel is smooth line release. You want even the tiniest split shot to pull line out without getting stuck. That’s why dedicated raft reels are so popular—they’re built for this exact job. But if you’re on a budget or don’t want to buy another specialized piece of gear, don’t panic! A good baitcasting reel works just fine, and I’ve even seen guys use a cheap disk reel in a pinch.

Wait, hold on—before you run out and grab your old disk reel, let me warn you: they have major downsides. Line release isn’t nearly as smooth as a metal raft reel, and reeling in? Forget about it. No crank handle means you’ll be fighting every inch of line, especially if you hook a big one. I learned that lesson the hard way last winter—hooked a monster white bass with a disk reel, and by the time I got it to the boat, my arm was sore for three days. Never again!

What about drag? For micro-lead raft fishing, drag strength doesn’t matter one bit. It’s 100% personal preference. Some anglers love a tight drag to lock into big fish, others prefer a looser drag to let smaller ones run a little. Test out a few settings and go with what feels comfortable for you.

Mastering Split Shot Weights for Raft Fishing

If you’ve ever stared at a pile of tiny split shots and wondered “Which one do I use?”, you’re not alone. Split shots for raft fishing come in all shapes and sizes, and most brands use a “B” rating to measure weight. Let’s use Eastern brand weights as an example—they’re the ones I use 90% of the time:

• 1B = 0.5g
• 2B = 0.6g
• 3B = 0.8g
• 4B = 1.2g
• 5B = 1.7g

So how do you pick the right one? It all boils down to two things: how good the bite is, and how deep the fish are hanging.

If the fish are biting like crazy or you’re fishing super deep (25+ feet), go for a heavier weight like 4B or 5B. Heavier weights get your bait down to the fish faster, which is key when the bite is hot—you don’t want to waste time waiting for your rig to sink. On the flip side, if the bite is slow or you’re fishing shallow water, stick to 1B or 2B. Lighter weights let your bait move more naturally, which is way more likely to trigger a bite from finicky winter fish.

Want a quick cheat sheet for depth? I’ve tested this a hundred times, and it never fails:

• Less than 5 feet deep: 1B
• 5–15 feet deep: 2B
• 10–20 feet deep: 3B
• 15–25 feet deep: 4B
• 25+ feet deep: 5B

Pro tip: Don’t be afraid to adjust mid-trip. If you’re getting a lot of bites but hooking fish short, try dropping down a size. If your bait isn’t getting to the fish fast enough, bump up the weight. Fishing is all about trial and error!

Bait Tips for Raft Fishing White Bass & Target Species

Let’s talk bait—because even the perfect rig won’t catch fish if your bait is duds. Raft fishing is mostly used for targeting suspended white bass, so your bait needs to match their aggressive feeding style. The good news? You can use live bait or artificial bait—both work, but let’s break down the pros and cons.

Live bait is my go-to for winter raft fishing. Minnows or small shiners work like a charm—white bass can’t resist a wiggling live meal. The only downside? Keeping them alive in cold water is a hassle. I always bring a heated bait bucket, but even then, I’ve had days where half my minnows froze solid before noon. Ugh, the struggle is real!

If live bait isn’t your thing, artificial lures work great too. Stick to lures that mimic the shape, color, and movement of small baitfish. Bright colors like silver or neon green work best in murky water, while natural tones like brown or olive are better in clear water. And here’s a hot take: you don’t need to load your bait with fish attractants or scents. White bass are visual hunters—they care way more about how your bait moves than how it smells. Save your money on fancy sprays; just focus on making your lure look alive.

Don’t forget about chumming! Even if you’re using the perfect bait, chumming is a game-changer for raft fishing. Toss out a handful of corn, pellets, or even cut-up minnows every 15–20 minutes to create a suspended fish bed. This keeps fish in your area longer and makes them more likely to bite. Just adjust how much you chum based on the bite: if fish are swarming, toss less so they don’t get full on chum. If the bite is slow, chum a little more to draw them in.

Setting the Hook & Fighting Fish in Winter Raft Fishing

Winter fish are lazy—there’s no way around it. Their metabolism slows down, so their bites are way softer than in spring or summer. That means you can’t wait for a huge, dramatic rod bend to set the hook. In fact, a tiny little twitch or dip is often all you’ll get.

Here’s my rule of thumb: if your rod tip bends even a little, set the hook! In spring and summer, white bass hit hard enough to yank the rod out of your hands, but winter bites are subtle. I’ve lost so many fish by waiting for a “better” bite—don’t make my mistake. A quick, sharp upward jerk is all you need to drive the hook home.

Mastering the Art of Lure Presentation (Jigging)

White bass are aggressive predators, but they still need a little extra encouragement to bite. That’s where jigging comes in—no matter if you’re fishing a fixed depth or using the micro-lead method, jigging is non-negotiable for raft fishing success.

The goal is to make your bait look like a wounded, easy-to-catch prey fish. There are tons of different jigging techniques, but here are my three go-to moves:

• Slow lift and drop: Lift your rod 6–12 inches, hold it for 2 seconds, then let it drop slowly. This mimics a baitfish struggling to swim.
• Quick twitches: Give the rod 2–3 small, fast twitches, then let the bait sink for a few seconds. This works great when fish are in a feeding frenzy.
• Steady retrieve with pauses: Reel in slowly, pausing every few turns to let the bait sink. Perfect for covering a lot of water quickly.

The key is to keep the movement natural. Don’t jerk your rod around like a maniac—fish will spot that fake movement and swim away. Take it slow, and pay attention to what works. If one technique isn’t getting bites, switch it up until you find what the fish want that day.

Cracking the Code of Fish Depth in Raft Fishing

Let’s be honest—finding the right fish depth is the most stressful part of raft fishing. One day, fish are hanging 10 feet deep; the next, they’re 25 feet down. It feels like they’re playing a cruel game of hide-and-seek. But here’s the thing: fish depth isn’t random. It’s affected by a ton of factors, and once you learn to read those cues, you’ll find fish every time.

What affects fish depth? Let’s list the big ones:

• Season (water temperature drops in winter, so fish move deeper for warmth)
• Weather (cloudy days mean fish stay shallow, sunny days drive them deep)
• Water temperature (white bass prefer 50–60°F water)
• Noise (loud boats or crowds will push fish deeper)
• Chumming (fish will hang around the chum bed, so adjust your depth to match)

So how do you actually find them? A fish finder is your best friend here. It shows you water depth, bottom structure, water temperature, and where the fish are hanging. But don’t fall into the trap of relying on it 100%! Fish finders have flaws:

• They can’t always pick up fish right on the bottom or just above it
• They can’t tell you what kind of fish you’re looking at (is that a white bass or a catfish? Who knows!)
• Sensitivity settings make it hard to tell how big the fish are

Use your fish finder as a guide, not a rulebook. If it shows a big school 20 feet down, don’t just drop your bait exactly at 20 feet. Fish move around—try fishing 18–22 feet deep to cover more ground. I’ve caught more fish by targeting the edges of a school than the center, every single time.

What if you don’t have a fish finder? Don’t panic! You can still find fish by testing different depths. Start shallow (5–10 feet) and slowly work your way down, waiting 5–10 minutes at each depth before moving. It’s slower, but it works. I did this for years before I could afford a fish finder, and I still catch just as many fish this way when my battery dies.

Last week, I was fishing a lake without my fish finder because I forgot to charge it. I started at 10 feet, waited 10 minutes with no bites, moved to 15 feet, and bam—hooked a 2-pound white bass within 2 minutes. I stayed in that 14–16 foot range for the rest of the day and caught 12 more. Patience pays off!

At the end of the day, raft fishing in winter is all about adapting. Fish change their habits, the weather throws you curveballs, and sometimes even the best gear won’t save a slow day. But if you take the time to master these tips—picking the right reel, nailing your split shots, using the right bait, and finding the perfect depth—you’ll be well on your way to becoming a raft fishing pro. Now go grab your gear, hit the water, and let me know how it goes—can’t wait to hear about your big catch!