How to Tie a Double Hook Rig for Spinning Sabiki Rigs: Boost Your Catch Rate!
Let’s be real—if you’ve ever fished with a spinning sabiki rig, you’ve probably yelled at your rod at least once. “Why the hell didn’t that stick?!” That’s the universal cry of every angler who’s watched a fish hit their bait like a freight train… only to swim away unscathed. I’ve been there too. For months, I’d hook one out of every three bites—if I was lucky. It was frustrating, to say the least. Then I had a wild idea: what if I doubled up the hooks? Not just “add another hook and call it a day,” but a proper double hook rig for spinning sabiki. And let me tell you—game. Changed.
Before we dive in, let’s get one thing straight: this isn’t just a “throw more hooks at the problem” hack. I tested this rig for weeks, and the results blew my mind. My catch rate jumped from ~33% to ~66%—that’s a 50% boost, easy. And the best part? I thought I’d be hooking fish by the side or tail (aka “anchoring”), but 90% of the time, they were properly hooked in the mouth. Even better than my single hook rig. How is that possible? I still don’t fully get it, but who cares? It works. Let’s break it down.
Why Double Hooks? The Problem with Single Hooks
First, let’s talk about the pain point we’re solving. Spinning sabiki rigs are great for small fish—sunfish, crappie, even tiny bass—but single hooks have two big flaws:
- Small target area: A single hook only has one chance to land in the fish’s mouth. If the fish hits slightly off-center? Miss.
- Limited hook angle: Single hooks can only catch fish that bite straight on. If a fish comes in from the side or behind? Good luck.
Double hooks fix both. Two hooks mean two chances to land in the mouth, and they spread out the target area. But here’s the catch: you can’t just tie two hooks randomly. If you do, you’ll end up with a tangled mess, or hooks that cancel each other out. That’s why this rig is so specific—every step matters.
What You’ll Need (No Fancy Gear Required)
You don’t need a $100 tackle box for this. Just grab these basics:
- Spinning sabiki rig (or just the main line): I use a pre-made rig for the base, but you can start from scratch.
- Two small hooks: Size 8–12 works best for micro fishing. I use octopus hooks (they’re cheap and effective).
- Thin fishing line: 2–4 lb test monofilament or fluorocarbon. Thinner = more natural.
- Scissors: For cutting line.
- Optional: Bobber/stoper: If you’re fishing shallow, a small bobber helps keep the rig at the right depth.
Step-by-Step: Tie the First Hook (The “Base” Hook)
First, we’re going to tie the first hook exactly like you would a regular single hook. This is the foundation of the rig. Here’s how:
- Thread the line through the eye of the hook (from front to back).
- Wrap the line around the hook shank 5–7 times (keep the wraps tight and neat).
- Thread the end of the line back through the small loop near the hook eye (the one you made when you wrapped the line).
- Pull the line tight—slowly! You don’t want to break the line.
- Trim the excess line (leave about 1/8 inch so it doesn’t slip).
Wait a second—did you notice the line is on the outside of the hook gap? That’s not a mistake! A lot of anglers (myself included at first) think the line should be inside the gap, but for this double hook rig, we want the hooks to face opposite directions. That means the first hook’s line goes on the outside so the second hook can sit parallel but flipped. Trust me—this is key for the “double target” effect.
The Tricky Part: Tying the Second Hook (Without Tangling)
This is where most people mess up. The second hook has to be tied so it’s parallel to the first, but facing the opposite way. If you do it wrong, you’ll get a rig that tangles every time you cast. Here’s the step-by-step (I’ll make it as simple as possible—promise):
Step 1: Leave Enough Line for the Second Hook
After tying the first hook, leave a 3–4 inch piece of line (this is your “leader” for the second hook). Don’t cut it short—you need enough line to wrap around the second hook’s shank. If you leave too little, the hooks will be too close together (tangles!) If you leave too much, they’ll be too far apart (less effective). 3–4 inches is perfect.
Step 2: Make a Loop with the Extra Line
Take the extra line (the 3–4 inch piece) and make a small loop. Hold the loop between your thumb and index finger—keep it tight so it doesn’t slip.
Step 3: Wrap the Loop Around the Second Hook
Here’s the magic part: take the second hook and insert its shank into the loop. Then, wrap the loop around the shank of the second hook 7–9 times. Keep the wraps tight—loose wraps will slip, and your hook will fall off mid-cast (ask me how I know).
Pro tip: Hold the first hook (the one you already tied) with your other hand to keep tension on the line. This prevents the wraps from getting loose.
Step 4: Pull the Loop Tight
Once you’ve wrapped 7–9 times, pull the end of the line (the one that’s not attached to the main rig) to tighten the loop. This will lock the second hook onto the line. Don’t yank it—just pull firmly until the wraps are snug.
Step 5: Trim the Excess Line
Finally, trim the excess line from the second hook (leave about 1/8 inch, same as the first). Now you have a double hook rig—two hooks, parallel, facing opposite directions. Perfect!
Tested & Proven: My Catch Rate Results
I know what you’re thinking: “This sounds too good to be true.” Let me prove it with real data. For two weeks, I fished the same spot (a small pond near my house) with both rigs:
- Single hook rig: 12 bites → 4 catches (33% success rate).
- Double hook rig: 18 bites → 12 catches (66% success rate).
That’s a 50% increase! And like I said earlier, almost all the catches were proper mouth hooks. I only anchored one fish with the double hook rig—way less than the single hook (which anchored 2 out of 4 catches). How is that possible? I think it’s because the two hooks spread out the target area, so the fish has to hit one of them head-on. But whatever the reason—It. Works.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Before you run out to the lake, let’s go over the mistakes I made so you don’t have to:
1. Hooks Too Close Together
If you leave less than 3 inches of line between hooks, they’ll tangle every time you cast. Trust me—you’ll spend more time untangling than fishing. 3–4 inches is the sweet spot.
2. Wraps Too Loose
If you don’t wrap the second hook tight enough, it will slip off mid-cast. I learned this the hard way when I lost a $10 hook (okay, it was a $0.50 hook, but still—annoying).
3. Using Too Heavy Line
Thick line (6 lb test or more) will make the rig look unnatural. Small fish are skittish—use 2–4 lb test. It’s thin enough to be invisible, but strong enough to hold small fish.
4. Hooks Facing the Same Direction
If both hooks face the same way, you’re just doubling the single hook problem. They need to face opposite directions to cover more area.
Final Thoughts: Is This Rig Worth It?
Absolutely. This rig takes 5 minutes to tie, uses cheap materials, and doubles your catch rate. I’ve tried every “pro tip” under the sun—changing bait, adjusting depth, even using different colors—and nothing worked as well as this double hook rig. It’s not perfect (nothing is), but it’s the best solution I’ve found for the “has a bite but no hook” problem.
Now, I’m not saying you’ll catch a trophy fish with this rig (it’s for micro fishing, after all). But if you want to fill your bucket with sunfish, crappie, or bluegill, this is the way to go. I’ve even taught my 10-year-old nephew how to tie it—he’s now catching more fish than his dad (sorry, Uncle Mike).
One last thing: if you mess up the second hook tie, don’t give up. It took me 3 tries to get it right. Practice at home with old line and hooks—you’ll get the hang of it. And if you have a better way to tie the second hook? Hit me up in the comments! I’m always looking for ways to make my rigs better.
Now go tie that rig, hit the water, and start catching more fish. You’re welcome!
